Northern Michigan’s Tunnel of Trees: Where to Splash, Play, and Eat Along the Lakeshore

Tooling along M-119, the Tunnel of Trees traversing the shoreline of Little Traverse Bay from Harbor Springs to Cross Village is a 16-mile long route known for its dense canopy of trees and sweeping views of Lake Michigan. Although summer is the most popular time to visit, the road in spring seems carpeted in pastel flowers, while in fall, gold and red leaves frame the alluring vistas of Lake Michigan and the surrounding countryside. No matter the season, you can have a grand time if you head to these tried-and-true spots that are little known to ordinary tourists.

Harbor Springs

For a taste of local history, pop into the Harbor Springs History Museum on Main Street. Visitors can learn about the native Odawa Indians, Great Lakes, and, in more recent developments, the local ski industry.

Just north of Harbor Springs, Thorne Swift Nature Preserve is our favorite hiking spot in the area because of the variety of ecosystems and access to Lake Michigan. The trails are meticulously maintained (and relatively wheelchair accessible), the surroundings are beautifully preserved, and it's only $5 per car to enter.

Stop at Pond Hill Farm, north of Thone Swift and just off M-119, to feed the fish in the trout pond and visit the pigs, goats, and cows. Bring lots of quarters for fish food because you won’t want to stop your kids from squealing as the trout gobble up the spray of pellets.

Good Hart

Continuing along the Tunnel of Trees, you’ll drive along a hairpin turn named Devil’s Elbow which, according to Odawa legend, is full of spirits and sometimes mysterious voices. Your next stop is Good Hart. This tiny hamlet has a sandy, public beach that is perfect for avoiding the crowds of Wilderness and Petoskey State Parks. Church Beach has a huge parking lot and requires a short jaunt to Lake Michigan. The kids and I like combing the beach for stones just as much as we like going in the water. We always hope to discover the most-prized find -- the Petoskey stone, Michigan’s official state stone and treasure of anyone lucky enough to find one. To get there, take North Lamkin Road in Good Hart down the hill and continue south until you get to the gleaming white 1880s church. The well-maintained path to the beach is just north of the church and well marked.

Cross Village

Further north is Cross Village; that’s where you’ll find Legs Inn, a fieldstone restaurant you can't miss. This landmark is renowned for its eclectic, one-of-a-kind architecture, expansive views of the sparkling Big Lake, and authentic Polish food. Their huge patio is on a bluff high over the lake, and you can easily see both Skillagalee Lighthouse and Beaver Island on clear days. I always order the sauerkraut pierogi, and their Polish sampler platter is delish, too. Head across the street to Three Pines Studio while you wait for a table or take your cold drink to one of the wooden swings overlooking the bluff.

Bliss

Although the Tunnel of Trees ends in Cross Village, take a short side trip northwest to the tiny town of Bliss. There you’ll find an old timey general store and Bliss Polo, a surprisingly accessible (it's free!) and entertaining match to take the kids to during the summer. You don’t need to know a thing about polo to appreciate the stunning horses both on and off the field. Another bonus: all spectators get to take the field at halftime to replace grass divots, an activity sure to please the kids in your group. I recommend bringing chairs or a blanket to sit on as there are no seats or stands for spectators.

Harbor Springs picnic:

Get thick sandwiches on homemade bread, slathered in its signature deli sauce at Gurney’s, the non-descript liquor shop at 215 E. Main Street.

Pick up dessert from Tom’s Mom’s at 267 S. Spring Street, famous for their amazingly huge and delicious cookies. Get a dozen so you can have some for later. You won't regret it.

Take your picnic fare to the tables overlooking the marina, and cap it all off with a stroll on the pier stretching out into the harbor.

Wondering where to stay or how to extend your trip to Petoskey? Here are ideas for both. 

Read about our favorite spots to stop in the article I wrote for Ann Arbor Family Press here.